Your floor color is lovely, neutral, and won't show a ton of dirt although you'll know it's there if you walk barefoot, it won't be an eyesore. What putty should we use? By doing it after the first coat you are less likely to fill some of the grain in the surrounding wood. Do you have any quick tips for fixing up reclaimed wood? I still don't know what condition the wood is in until we look under the plywood, but I have nothing to lose. Allow the stain to dry and theb finish with the top coats, sealer, varnish, poly, whatever. Use a cloth that has been lightly dampened with water to clean any excess filler from around the nail hole. There is no easy way to remove the holes. Combine it thoroughly in a disposable container and use this for the repair by applying it to the nail hole.
Two of the bedrooms were never carpeted and the floors are still in excellent shape. Now if you look over here at this section of the floor, you'll see that this an oak floor. Next I'll mark the length of the board. Note: this putty dries out fast so get the small container. Recommended If you're in the San Jose area, floor, moulding, doors is a great place for material at contractors' prices, a fraction of the cost of Home Depot or Lowe's. Wood putty is appropriate for quick nail hole repair, but it can never be finished because it does not dry completely.
My first choice would be to leave the staple holes. A toothpick, or bundle of toothpicks will also work. Then I scrape off the finish right up to the line. I'll probably sand the floors next weekend. If yes, then I suggest using wood filler. Apply the matching stain, and allow it to dry.
Setting up boards to paint. After removing walls during a remodel and updating the heating system, I now have holes in the floor that need patching. You can sand and sand but you will never remove them until you sand down past the depth that they went in. And I think this one has a little bit. Ex: Put painter's tape on the wall at the seam. You can often find decent replacement planks at a at a reasonable price.
Shellac is handy for many projects. He reported this afternoon that the floors in the living room and dining room are ruined. I like to do that between the first and second coats. Focus the refilling process to the proximity of the nail hole to avoid damaging the finish of the rest of the surface Avoid using wood putty and wood filler in filling larger crevices, holes, and cracks on wooden floors. I was gorgeous, rustic, authentic. Let two days pass so that the floor cures thoroughly before you use it again. My kitchen floor had thin plywood nailed down with ring-shanks, too.
Using a series of straight and angled chisel cuts, I can slice quickly and neatly all the way through the plank. There does appear to be some form of structural damage beneath the damaged boards. The lightweight putty will mushroom less. This will help make sure that when you wedge the wood in, it will fill the hole completely. Avoid scuffing adjacent undamaged areas. You need to keep in mind that this is a floor and not the dinning room table, a little character is bound to show it self in a 50 + year old home. Adam suggested may do the trick, but your really not going to have a lot of luck as they tend to show up as the wax wears off.
Finish by using a buffer to give a nice shine to the hardwood. Instead, use wood, and if possible seek the assistance of a wooden floor technician to avoid the possibility of causing damage to your floor. From here on out, use a headlamp all the time to see small imperfections. This is three quarter inch thick solid oak, tongue in groove. Use the sponge brush again and allow the gloss to dry overnight.
I then discovered that if I jammed or tapped the claw onto the shaft of the nail I could easily pull it. This time is usually about 24 hours. Because they are wax, they cannot be coated with a finish, but for small holes this generally is not an issue A hadware store can provide the wax crayon fillers such as : Pick a few colors. I'm sure you want a little less rustic look for your dining room- but you could patch some of the prominent holes and leave others. I went nuts to get perfectly smooth trim when we replaced all of it in our. Simply knead the putties together until they become pliable, then press the product into each nail hole. A foam brush works nicely when cutting in a small area like this.
Now one of the trickiest parts of the flooring repair job like this is touching up or matching the finish. Some we covered with an area rug, but the rest just let it all hang out. We had a bunch of extra caramel apple sticks from , so those worked perfectly. Because most finishes over time do tend to yellow. If the plywood isn't as thick as the subflooring, shim the patch so it's flush with the surrounding subfloor.
Blend the repair into the natural variation of the floor's color and grain. It's still serviceable and will get us through the other priorities until we're ready to tackle it. It was there I fell in love with the beauty of the grain of the wood, either hidden beneath an old dark finish or highlighted with a new coat of stain. If you leave the dust from your sanding in the holes, it'll expand when you putty the hole and you're back to mushroom. Step 5 — Seal or Color Your Repair After the repair site dries, you can paint or stain it as necessary. The house was built in 1938, and everything is obviously stabilized from a moisture point of view. After it dried, which took about two hours, I sanded it flush with the wood using 120-grit sandpaper, then stained the entire shelf.